Dyed Green returns with Chef Paula McIntyre
On food memories, “Protestant” cakes, & a new home for our podcast
There’s nothing quite like a food memory, is there? I’m talking about the kind that brings you right back–not only to the place you first tasted something, but to the age you were when you tried it. All different kinds of things can trigger a memory like this; sometimes a smell summons a memory so strong that I can practically taste it.
I was reminded of this yesterday when Max and I were driving home from a meeting at our architect’s office in Detroit (where we had just seen the final drawings for Alo’s–eek!). We were talking about the menu, and I was rattling off a list of suggestions for the dessert menu. Long story short, I *really* want to have those Italian sorbets that come in hollowed-out fruits, like oranges and lemons. I remember being obsessed with them as a child, and they made me so, so happy. What if we were to add them to the kids menu at Alo’s?
I’ve been to Italy twice, but neither of my trips were for vacation, and as such, I didn’t have a lot of control over where and what I ate. Several years ago, I spent three weeks in Orvieto, a beautiful city that sits on top of a cliff in Umbria. I was there as part of Harvard’s Program in Refugee Trauma, and for better or worse, my food memories consist of very overcooked meats and some pretty good pasta. I hadn’t done my research, and I didn’t really have time to wander and explore the area.
Earlier this year, I went to Rome for a few days to attend the Parabere Forum, which focuses on amplifying women’s voices in food. On my first day there, I met up with a group of Irish chefs & artisans at the Mercato di Testaccio where I had some of the best pizza I’ve ever tasted in my life. It was from a small stall called Casa Manco. I hadn’t heard of it, but I joined the long line and waited for my chance to order and then did something somewhat spontaneous: I ordered the pizza one of the owners told me was the best one they made. I say somewhat spontaneous because, while I think you should always ask locals for advice (especially chefs & artisans about food), the pizza he suggested was something that I absolutely NEVER would have ordered for myself. When I told Max later on, he hardly believed it: the pizza had a white cream sauce, cheese, guanciale, and was DRIZZLED WITH HONEY. For me, sugar on pizza is a place I just won’t go.
When I tell you that this slice of pizza was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten…tears rolled down my cheeks. This is where I was and what I was experiencing at the moment that I first met Paula McIntyre, our guest on this week’s Dyed Green. I was quite literally crying.
Paula is a chef, writer, and broadcaster, as well as the director of Slow Food Northern Ireland. I first heard of Paula and her cooking from our mutual friend, Jess Murphy, who had raved to me on several occasions about how Paula makes the best “Protestant cakes.” This was a term that I had never heard before (or since), and I was automatically intrigued, at least in part because my maternal grandfather’s family are Protestants from Belfast. What, exactly, is a “Protestant” cake? It’s an intriguing question, particularly in the context of the north of Ireland, where religion has been used as an excuse to divide people for generations. However, I’m afraid you’re going to have to listen to our interview with Paula to find out!
We’ve made the decision to migrate Dyed Green from its home at Heritage Radio Network over to Substack as part of a broader decision to use Sunwise as an online hub and gathering place for Bog & Thunder related projects and activities. You’ll still be able to listen to our episodes wherever you get your podcasts, and they will also be available on Sunwise here. We also have some exciting guests planned, a contest when we hit our 50th episode, and a limited narrative documentary-style series spinoff planned for 2025.
We’re so excited to resume regular programming with our conversation with Paula, who is as fun and entertaining as she is skilled in the kitchen. This next episode will be available on Substack and everywhere else this Monday, October 14th.
